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Art and Culture Barnet Enfield Green Palmers Green History Spooky stories

How the ghost of Geoffrey de Mandeville was de-moated (a sort-of Christmas story)

If you are thinking of a winter’s Sunday walk, you could do worse than spend a few moments on the tube to Cockfosters, and take a wander around the beautiful undulating and Repton designed grounds of Trent Park, once part of the Royal Hunting Forests of Enfield Chase. Head past the café on the path that goes north of the lake and you will eventually come to the mysterious green waters of Camlet Moat, a scheduled ancient monument.

2014-11-15 14.55.59
sue beard 2014

It may be centuries old but the C shaped enclosure, full of ancient trees, has a kind of unknowable life of its own, with letters carved into trees, charms and tokens wedged and tied into the branches, and tinsel and streamers laid over the limbs of the ancient trees. Druids say that it’s a spiritual place, where one can experience the earth’s energy. It’s certainly eerie as the low winter sun slowly sinks and the shadows grow longer, a place where anything might happen.

But our story begins, not in Enfield, but in Egypt in 1923 when manicured socialite Sir Philip Sassoon was invited by Lord Carnarvon and Harold Carter to witness the opening of the tomb of Tutankhamun. Returning home, unaffected by the famous curse of King Tut but excited by the prospect of hidden treasure, Sassoon’s thoughts turned to the ancient monument on his own property, Trent Park, where he regularly entertained the likes of Charlie Chaplin, Rex Whistler, and George Bernard Shaw in tasteful opulence. Before many months had passed, Sassoon’s team had started to dig.

Camlet had for some centuries been reputed to have been the home of Sir Geoffrey Mandeville, the first Earl of Essex and Constable of the Tower of London, though some say it was first the home of King Arthur. In ancient times it was right at the centre of the Royal Forest: the moat made it capable of defence, and so Camlet was ideally placed to manage and police the forest. The earliest records show that permission was granted to crenelate an existing house on the site in 1347, but that the house was demolished 100 years later so that the materials could be sold to pay for renovations to Hertford Castle.

Sue Beard 2014
Sue Beard 2014

And so, Sassoon drained the moat while the locals watched and waited.

Within a little while, the remains of a huge drawbridge were found, and a long wall, in some places 5 feet thick, plus Roman sandals, ancient daggers and horseshoes. Remarkable though these finds were, press reports soon began to focus not so much on the finds, but of the risk of disturbing the ghost of Sir Geoffrey Mandeville, who, as legend had variously described it, had buried treasure under the paved bottom of a well on the site to keep it from his many enemies or alternatively had fallen in with his treasure and drowned, his spirit lingering to ensure its eternal protection. The remains of an ancient well were indeed found, in the north east corner of the area enclosed by the moat.

Well might the naysayers have worried.

There were no sightings during this excavations, but this may have been because Geoffrey had apparently forgotten about his treasure – perhaps his hard currency was no good in the spirit world – and flounced off. According to a local writer calling himself the Philanderer, he had moved to East Barnet, first to a stable, which was unfortunately then pulled down by the council, and then to the house of Nora O Callahan and her sister, where he set to terrorising them by knocking on the door, thumping around, rattling their letterbox and generally terrifying their normally fearless dog. Next, he was seen by persons unrecorded, in full regalia of red cloak and spurs.

The national press descended, and by all accounts, Barnet became a place of ghost hunting bedlam and police had to be brought in to regulate the traffic. One William Stutters complained of the racket that Sir Geoffrey was making and warned that local building work was waking the dead. Paranormal activity was now also bedeviling the building which is today the Prince of Wales pub. Curiously though, by 1930 the Philanderer was saying that Sir Geoffrey was back stalking around Cockfosters at Christmas time though in December 1932 he was seen in full armour in East Barnet by the members of the local psychic research society, which was lucky, because they just happened to be staking the place out at midnight. By this time, it was being said that Sir Geoffrey made an appearance on Christmas Eve every six years.

Sue Beard 2014
Sue Beard 2014

Sightings of Sir Geoffrey have continued intermittently, though they haven’t occurred at 6 year intervals as specified or even in the same place – he has been spotted in Hadley Woods and at East Barnet church. If the legend is correct, he is next due to appear at Christmas in 2016. Who knows where he will have moved to by then?

If your interest is piqued by the story of Sir Geoffrey, do read Jennie Lee Cobban’s brilliant, hilarious and entertaining Geoffrey de Mandeville and London’s Camelot. Currently out of print but available in libraries.*

This article originally appeared in the December 14 issue of Palmers Green and Southgate Life

*Addendum – new edition available at Barnet museum.

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Art and Culture Comedy Community Enfield History Palmers Green Southgate

Theodore Royle, the gentleman bard of Palmers Green

At the beginning of October we once again celebrated National Poetry Day. Now, as we know, the Palmers Green and Southgate area is a veritable wonderland of literature, with our notables including Stevie Smith, V S Pritchett, Leigh Hunt, Thomas Hood and Paul Scott to mention but a few.

But there are very few poems about the area. At least that is what Theodore Royle may have thought, when he stepped into the breach in the early 1900s with his remarkable Rambles in Rhymeland.

Little is known of Royle, except that he was born in High Holborn in 1840 and by 1901 was living with his wife Fanny at the Rowans in the southern part of the borough, roughly New Southgate – his parish was the then largely rural St Michael at Bowes. His trade was as a printer and engraver and therein might lay a clue to how he came to have the wherewithal to publish Rambles, seemingly his only book, printed for private circulation.

Royle made no great claims for its literary merit. The frontispiece bears the quote from Byron, Royle’s jovial bewhiskered face beaming out next to it:

Tis pleasant to see one’s name in print
a book’s a book, although there’s nothing in’t

I think that we might have liked Royle, had we met him in The Fox or Cock Tavern or out for a walk in rural Palmers Green. Though I think that Royle might have liked Royle a bit too.

Theodore Royle

He was certainly nothing if not a sentimental fellow, for several poems tell tales of nature, love and tragic death, often in the traditional I-met-my-true-love-but-then-she-carked-it genre. One can only wonder what Fanny Royle thought of Regrets in which the poet meets his love in the summer, but she is cruelly snatched away, though her memory brings comfort in his dreams. I rather hope that Fanny and not, say, the kitchen maid, inspired the poem The Glorious Summertime, in which he meets his love, apparently covered in foliage –

The birds were singing merrily
In heavens blue vault above,
When in the glorious summer time,
I met my own sweet love;
A wreath of fairest jessamine
She’d twined around her hair,
And on her cheeks the winds rough kiss
Had left some blushes there.

Reader, he marries her.

The inspiration to finally publish may have been due to aspirations political as well as poetic – a good deal of the verse is about the comings and goings in the local administration. On the evidence of Rambles, one wonders why other poets do not decide to plough this obviously rich furrow, for Royle manages 17 pages of verse on the subject of Sir Ralph Littler and the separation of Southgate from Edmonton.

For those who do not know the story, by the 1870s the well to do of Palmers Green and Southgate had become very dissatisfied with the local board’s neglect of the western part of the borough. The final straw had been when Sir Ralph Littler, then resident of Broomfield House, had woken to find the fish in the lake in front of the house dead, the casualties of sewerage from a cracked and ill fitting pipe. He sued the authorities, and efforts were stepped up to separate the borough into two. Of course, the other motivation may have been that rich and well to do Palmers Greeners in their rural idyll didn’t much fancy paying rates for the needs of working class Edmonton, something not entirely disguised in Royle’s doggerel.

Events culminated with a public meeting to vote on the issue of separation in early 1881, coinciding with a great snowstorm, which prevented most of the Edmonton anti separatists from attending. History was, as they say, made, and Southgate Local Board was established. In 1894 Southgate become an Urban District.

In 1882 Royle, delighted with the outcome, apparently got up at a meeting in the village hall in Southgate and sang a ditty, in honour of the good deeds of Sir Ralph Littler and Southgate’s other valiant heroes, sung in swashbuckling terms and packed liberally with in-jokes. The full text is reprinted in the book, and alas, the space I have here cannot do full justice to it, so you are going to have to check it out for yourself.

Enough of that. My favourite poem leaves the travails of Southgate independence behind, and turns to the subject of Royle’s bicycle

My bike! My bike! I gaze on thee now
With quickening breath and a joyous brow…

And who can honestly say they haven’t felt like that?

You can read Theodore Royle’s Rambles in Rhymeland in full at https://archive.org/details/ramblesinrhymela00royl

Picture of T Royle by kind permission of Enfield Local Studies and Archive Team.

(c) Sue Beard 2014. This article first appeared in Palmers Green and Southgate Life.

Categories
Art and Culture Community Enfield Green Palmers Green History Palmers Green Planning and open spaces

I was a Truro House visitor

Poor old soul - Truro House in a state of dilapidation May 2012
Poor old soul – Truro House in a state of dilapidation May 2012

News comes this week via the ever hardworking Palmers Green Community website that planning permission has finally been granted for Truro House and grounds. This comes  after a long hiatus in which no one seemed to know what was happening, and Palmers Green residents watched in dismay as the building became more and more neglected and surrounded in mystery.

Apparently Truro House is to be saved and restored as a single dwelling and the old coach house will also become a single dwelling. Two blocks of flats will be built, one of two stories and the other of 3 and 4 at various points. There will be lower ground floor and roof level accommodation in the new buildings.

I have not been able to establish whether the formal grounds on the Green Lanes side of the building will be retained – there is a frightening number of documents on Enfield Council’s website – but one of the drawings from 2009 indicates that the intention may be that they could be retained.

Coincidentally, my favourite message in my inbox this week was from the creator of the  Finchley website Greenacre Times‘ creator Lindsay Barnfield, who told us about the time she visited Truro House and met the legendary Miss Davie, whose family occupied the building for one hundred years. Incidentally, I wrote a complete article on the history of Truro back in January, but forgot to post it, so stand by for that shortly.

Lindsay says

Like many others, I found Truro House fascinating when I passed y on the bus. I have always liked doors in walls. So you can imagine how pleased I was to being going through that door when I had reason to visit Miss Davies.

This was in 1990 when she was 92. I was greeted by her housekeeper and led in through a kitchen that dated from the early part of the (last) century complete with range, then through another kitchen with more modern appliances then in to the main hall. This was a room in itself, with a grand fireplace. At the top of the stairs there hung a beautiful full length portrait of a gowned Miss Davies, dating I should imagine, around 1920.

She held court in a vast room, that acted as a sitting room and bedroom on the first floor overlooking the garden. There was a fascinating little staircase that led up out of the room – how I wanted to explore! Opposite Miss Davies’ room was another grand panelled room, barely used, looking as if little had changed during Miss Davies’ lifetime (apart from electricity!). How I would have loved a guided tour! She told me she has lived in the house her entire life.

I always felt that this should have been left as a museum – as Miss Davies had no children to inherit her amazing home.

For more information on the plans for the house which have now received conditional approval from Enfield Council, click here.

 

Categories
Art and Culture Barnet Community Enfield History Planning and open spaces

One day, when the war had ended, there were fireworks

My first ever fireworks display was in Oakhill Park on V.E day. Fireworks were on the hill whilst we stood on the flat the other side of Pymmes Brook. It finished with George VIs head in lights. It was total magic.

Barbara B from Southgate remembers her first ever firework display. (Image by kind permission of Christine Matthews, Creative Commons Licence)

Oakhill Park

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Enfield Green Palmers Green Planning and open spaces Southgate

(I dont want to) go to Chelsea

Palmers Green and Southgate could be better connected to central London following the announcement this week of the preferred route for Crossrail 2.

In previous plans, the terminus of the route would have been Alexandra Palace, but following responses from the public, TfL is now proposing the incorporation of New Southgate into the plans – there is little or no further cost, as it utilises existing railway land.

If it goes ahead, it’ll be possible to travel from Ally Pally and New Southgate across London, to Angel, Tottenham Court Road, Victoria, Chelsea, Clapham and Wimbledon, all without having to change trains. The capacity created would allow for as many as 30 or 40 trains an hour.

So even if you ‘dont want to go to Chelsea’, in the words of Elvis Costello, you know, you could. When it opens in the early 2030s.

Crossrail 2 map regional route Oct 14

 

Categories
Art and Culture Community Enfield Green Palmers Green Palmers Green Planning and open spaces Southgate

Town Hall sold

Southgate Town Hall from the New River December 2012 Image Sue Beard
Southgate Town Hall from the New River December 2012 Image Sue Beard

Surely Southgate Town Hall was sold ages ago?

Apparently not, it seems, but it is now. Contracts have been exchanged with Hollybrook Homes, and work begins this month on the development of  the Town Hall and current car park area to create 37 new flats, some of which will be affordable homes (to use the modern parlance).

The deal has netted Enfield Council £2million in a deal which also provides for the refurbishment of Palmers Green Library and the creation of public space on the corner between the two buildings (surmounted by another clock tower in versions of plans issued earlier this year).

Hollybrook’s signs are already up outside the building.